You wash your hair, you rinse it well, and you assume your scalp is clean. In fact it is never empty. It is home to a living community of bacteria and fungi, and that community has a great deal to do with whether your scalp feels calm or itchy. In this month's hair health update from Holistic Hair Studio in Alexandria, we look at the science of the scalp microbiome.
Who Lives on Your Scalp
Your scalp has more oil glands than almost anywhere else on your body, and that oil, called sebum, creates a rich environment for microbes. Studies of healthy scalps consistently find a small number of dominant residents.
Cutibacterium. Formerly known as Propionibacterium, these bacteria live in oily areas of skin and feed on sebum.
Staphylococcus. Several species of this bacteria live on healthy skin, most commonly Staphylococcus epidermidis.
Malassezia. This yeast is the main fungus on the scalp. It cannot make the fats it needs to survive, so it lives on yours.
In a balanced scalp, these organisms coexist and help protect the skin from less welcome visitors.
Dandruff Is Not Dry Skin
One of the most common misunderstandings we hear from clients across Del Ray and Old Town North is that dandruff means a dry scalp. It is usually the opposite. Dandruff is closely linked to oil and to the microbes that feed on it.
Malassezia breaks down the fats in sebum and releases fatty acids, including oleic acid. In people whose skin is sensitive to them, these fatty acids irritate the scalp and speed up the turnover of skin cells. The result is visible flakes and itch. Dandruff is extremely common, and estimates suggest it affects around half of adults at some point.
The Bacteria Matter Too
For years, Malassezia took most of the blame. A 2016 study of 59 adults published in Scientific Reports found that the balance of bacteria was even more closely linked to dandruff. Dandruff scalps had fewer Cutibacterium and more Staphylococcus than healthy scalps, and the levels of Malassezia did not track the severity of the flakes.
The researchers concluded that dandruff appears to depend on how the whole community and the scalp interact, not on a single microbe. That is why harsh treatments that strip everything away often bring short relief followed by a return of the problem.
What Upsets the Balance
Several everyday habits can disturb the scalp community.
Harsh sulfate shampoos. Strong detergents strip sebum quickly, and the scalp can respond by producing more.
Product buildup. Dry shampoo, heavy styling products and silicones leave a film that traps oil and dead skin.
Infrequent washing. Leaving oil on the scalp for too long gives Malassezia more to feed on.
Winter heating. Dry indoor air in Alexandria homes and offices can leave the skin barrier more reactive.
Hard water. Mineral deposits can sit on the scalp and make it harder to rinse products away.
How to Care for Your Scalp Microbiome
Wash with a gentle, sulfate free shampoo, such as the OWAY range we use in the studio.
Wash often enough to keep oil from building up. For many people that means every two to three days.
Massage the scalp with your fingertips when you shampoo, rather than scratching with your nails.
Rinse thoroughly, especially after using conditioner or masks.
Use dry shampoo sparingly and never for days in a row.
See a dermatologist if flaking is severe, painful or spreads beyond the scalp.
Scalp Care at Holistic Hair Studio
Our Scalp Purifying Treatment, $135, is designed to clear buildup, calm the skin and restore balance using OWAY organic and biodynamic formulas. It is available with a professional blow dry and style from $210. For a lighter reset, our Detox Treatment, $42, can be added to any service.
Because we use products without harsh sulfates and our studio is a fragrance free environment, it is a comfortable place for clients with sensitive or reactive scalps. Clients visit our Powhatan Street studio from Old Town North, Del Ray, Potomac Yard and Arlington.
If your scalp gets worse when the heating comes on, read why your scalp itches more in winter.
Your Healthy Scalp Checklist
Choose a gentle, sulfate free shampoo
Wash often enough to stop oil building up
Keep dry shampoo for occasional use
Massage, do not scratch
Book a Scalp Purifying Treatment at Holistic Hair Studio in Alexandria
Book your appointment today and experience the transformative power of natural organic hair wellness at Holistic Hair Studio!
1433 Powhatan Street, Alexandria, VA 22314
Book your appointment: 703-473-6864
You might also like to read these articles:
Scalp SOS: How to Soothe an Itchy Scalp and Prevent Dandruff
